A first-timer's plan

Two Days in Dhërmi

A beach village on the Albanian Riviera, set below the Ceraunian Mountains on the Ionian coast — clear water, hidden coves, and simple, excellent seafood. Here's how to spend two unhurried days between the sea and the hillside.

Getting around: a car helps · beaches walkable from the coast road · what to see · getting here & around

Day 1

The beaches

Dhërmi Beach, quieter Drymades, and a long lazy day by the sea.

Morning

Start on Dhërmi Beach — the main stretch of clear Ionian water below the village. Get in early for a swim before it fills up, and grab a spot with some shade.

Late morning

Walk along to quieter Drymades just to the north, a more relaxed stretch backed by olive groves and a handful of low-key beach bars.

Lunch

Lunch of grilled seafood or fresh fish at a taverna by the water, with a byrek or some qofte to start. See what to eat for the local dishes worth ordering.

Afternoon

Snorkel, kayak, or paddleboard in the clear water, or simply settle in for a long afternoon on the pebbles. This is the day to do nothing in particular.

Sunset

A drink at a beach bar as the sun drops over the Ionian Sea — the village's finest free show.

Evening

Dinner along the coast — more grilled fish and seafood, a carafe of Albanian wine or a rakia to finish. See where to eat.

Day 2

Coves, canyon & the old village

A boat trip to hidden coves, or a hike and drive above the coast.

Morning

Take a boat trip along the coast to hidden Gjipe Beach, tucked into the mouth of a canyon, and on to the Pirates' Cave in the Grama Bay area — the kind of coves you can only really reach from the water.

Alternative

Prefer to stay on land? Drive up to the Llogara Pass for panoramic views over the coast, or hike down the canyon toward Gjipe on foot instead of taking the boat.

Afternoon

Back near the village, walk up to the old upper village of Gjilek and to St. Mary's Monastery on the hillside above Dhërmi — a quiet climb with wide views over the sea.

Evening

A last swim, then a relaxed dinner of grilled seafood and Albanian wine — see where to eat and after dark.

Base

Where to stay

Base yourself near the beach or up in the old village, depending on whether you want the sea on your doorstep or a quieter hillside retreat. Compare the areas in our neighborhoods guide, then pick a room from the hotels guide.

+ Day 3

With more time

A third day is best spent on a day trip: the Llogara Pass (~40 min), the town of Himarë and nearby Porto Palermo Castle (~20 min), the quieter beaches of Palasë and Jal, or a longer run south to Sarandë, Ksamil and the ancient ruins of Butrint (about 1.5–2 h).

Good to know

Is two days enough for Dhërmi?

Two days is plenty for a beach village. It covers the main beaches, a boat trip or hike to a hidden cove, the walk up to the old upper village and monastery, and the local food. A third day lets you slow down or add a day trip along the Riviera.

Do you need a car?

A car helps. Dhërmi spreads between the coast road and the old upper village on the hillside, and the best day trips — the Llogara Pass, Himarë, the beaches to the north and south — are easiest with your own wheels. For the beaches themselves you can walk or take a boat.

What's the best way to reach the hidden coves?

Gjipe Beach and the Pirates' Cave in the Grama Bay area are reached by boat along the coast, and Gjipe can also be hiked down through its canyon. Boat trips run in season from the main beach, or you can arrange one locally.

Browse landmarks →Where to stay Day trips

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