Porto Palermo Castle is the strangest, most cinematic stop on the Albanian Riviera — a squat triangular fortress built by the Ottoman warlord Ali Pasha of Tepelena on a low, near-island headland in a perfectly sheltered bay, with a Cold War submarine base hidden in the cliffs across the water. From Dhërmi it's an easy half-day trip of about 30–35 minutes south, just past Himarë. Here's how to visit, what it costs in lek, and what to make of the eerie military ruins next door.
TL;DR: visiting Porto Palermo Castle
| Detail | The short answer |
|---|---|
| What it is | A triangular castle built ~1804 by Ali Pasha of Tepelena |
| Where | A headland in Porto Palermo Bay, ~8–10 km south of Himarë |
| From Dhërmi | ~30 km / ~30–35 min south on the SH8 |
| Entry fee | ~300 lek (about €3), cash in lek only |
| Time needed | ~1 hour at the castle; half a day with Himarë |
| Nearby oddity | A Cold War submarine tunnel across the bay |
| Best paired with | Himarë and the coastal drive south |
The castle on the headland
The fortress sits on a rocky spit that reaches out into Porto Palermo Bay, connected to the shore by a narrow causeway so it feels like its own little island. It was built around 1804 by Ali Pasha of Tepelena — reportedly with the help of French military engineers, and likely on the ruins of an earlier Venetian fort (its triangular plan echoes the Venetian castle at Butrint). Ali Pasha was the powerful and famously ruthless Ottoman governor who ran much of southern Albania and north-western Greece in the late 18th and early 19th centuries and studded the region with castles.
The design is unusual and satisfyingly simple: a triangular plan with a squat tower at each of the three corners and thick stone walls — around 3.2–3.5 metres thick — built to shrug off cannon fire. Inside it's largely bare, a warren of dim vaulted rooms and stairways you can wander freely, but the pull of the place is the setting: you climb onto the ramparts and the whole bay opens up, ringed by bare mountains dropping straight to still, deep-blue water. It's one of the most photogenic spots on the coast, and refreshingly uncommercial compared with the beaches.
What it costs and when to go
Entry is about 300 lek (roughly €3), and it's cash in lek only — no cards, and don't count on euros being accepted at the gate, so bring small notes. There's a caretaker who collects the fee in season; reported hours are roughly 9:00–19:00 in summer and 8:00–16:00 in winter, but a caretaker runs the gate, so treat them as a guide rather than a guarantee — off-season opening can be sporadic. Go in the morning to beat both the heat (there's almost no shade on the headland) and the tour groups that trickle down from Sarandë and Himarë later in the day.
The Cold War submarine base
Across the bay from the castle, carved into the limestone cliffs at the northern end, is Porto Palermo's other secret: a Cold War-era submarine tunnel, begun in 1969 with Chinese help — China having become Albania's patron after Enver Hoxha's regime broke with the Soviet Union — and, after the Chinese withdrew, finished by Albania alone only in 1988, at huge cost to one of Europe's poorest countries. The tunnel is huge — reported at over 650 metres long and around 12 metres high — and was designed to shelter a handful of Soviet Whiskey-class submarines out of sight of the outside world. It's the coast's biggest example of a national obsession: between 1967 and 1986 Hoxha's regime built an estimated 173,000 concrete bunkers across Albania — the small, dome-shaped pillboxes you still spot on hillsides and beaches, around six per square kilometre (the widely-repeated "750,000" figure is a myth). Fear of invasion, real and imagined, quite literally reshaped the landscape.
Here's the important caveat: the tunnel is still officially a military restricted zone, and it's deteriorating, unlit and partly flooded inside. Do not try to sneak in — it's both illegal and genuinely dangerous. You can, however, see the entrance and the abandoned barracks clearly from a viewpoint on the SH8 coast road (free), or from the water on a boat trip out of Himarë. That distant view of a submarine cave in a silent bay is plenty atmospheric on its own.
Swimming and the bay
Porto Palermo isn't only a castle stop — the bay itself is one of the calmest, most sheltered anchorages on the coast, which is exactly why the military prized it, and today it makes a serene swim. There's a small pebble beach near the causeway where you can cool off after the walk around the ramparts, with water as clear and still as anywhere on the Riviera but almost none of the crowds you'll find on the main beaches to the north. Bring water and something to snack on, because facilities here are minimal — this is a wild, quiet corner rather than a serviced beach.
A little chapel stands near the shore by the castle, and local lore ties the whole site to Ali Pasha and his family; you'll hear romantic stories about who it was built for, best enjoyed as legend rather than documented fact. What's beyond doubt is the atmosphere: a triangular fort, a hidden submarine cave, a natural harbour and a lonely chapel, all in one silent, mountain-ringed bay. It's the kind of place that rewards lingering an extra half-hour rather than rushing on to the next beach.
How to get there from Dhërmi
Porto Palermo is about 30 km south of Dhërmi, roughly 30–35 minutes by car on the SH8, and the drive itself — hugging the coast past Himarë — is half the pleasure. Your options:
| Way to go | How it works | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Own car / scooter | The simplest and best; park by the causeway | Free roadside parking; the SH8 drive is scenic |
| Furgon / bus | Take a coast-road minibus toward Himarë/Sarandë, ask to be dropped at the Porto Palermo turnoff | Seasonal and infrequent; then a short walk down |
| Boat trip | Some Himarë boat tours pass or stop in the bay | Best for seeing the submarine tunnel from the water |
| Organised day trip | Riviera tours from Sarandë sometimes include it | Verify the stop before booking |
A car is by far the easiest way — see renting a car for the Riviera — and it lets you fold Porto Palermo into a longer day. If you're relying on public transport, the Dhërmi without a car guide covers the furgon reality.
Make a day of it
Porto Palermo is only an hour's visit on its own, so most people pair it with the neighbouring town. A natural loop from Dhërmi:
- Drive south to Himarë (~20–25 min), swim at Livadhi or Potami and see the old town and castle.
- Carry on ~10 minutes to Porto Palermo, explore the fortress, and take in the submarine bay from the road.
- Continue south to Borsh for Albania's longest beach, or turn back for sunset in Dhërmi.
It also slots neatly into the full Vlorë–Sarandë road trip and the wider best day trips from Dhërmi. For more castles, coves and coastal sights along this stretch, browse the day trips section.
A few practical notes before you set off:
- Bring cash and water. The ~300 lek (€3) entry is cash in lek, and there's no shop or reliable shade on the headland.
- Wear proper shoes. The ramparts and stairways are uneven old stone; flip-flops make the climb awkward.
- Go early or late. Midday is hot and busiest; morning light and cooler air suit both the castle and the swim.
- Don't bank on exact hours. Reported opening is roughly 9:00–19:00 in summer and 8:00–16:00 in winter, but a caretaker runs the gate seasonally — go with some flexibility rather than a tight schedule.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to enter Porto Palermo Castle?
Entry is around 300 lek — about €3 — and it's cash in Albanian lek only, with no cards and no guarantee euros are accepted at the gate. A caretaker collects the fee in summer. Bring small notes, as change can be limited on a quiet day.
How far is Porto Palermo from Dhërmi?
About 30 km, or roughly 30–35 minutes by car on the SH8 coast road, passing through Himarë on the way. It's an easy half-day trip, and most visitors combine it with Himarë's beaches and old town to make a fuller day out of the drive south.
Can you visit the Porto Palermo submarine base?
Not inside — the 1969 submarine tunnel is still an official military restricted zone and is unlit, flooded in places and unsafe. You can see its entrance and the abandoned barracks clearly from a free viewpoint on the SH8, or from a Himarë boat trip, which is the safe and legal way to experience it.
Who built Porto Palermo Castle?
The triangular fortress was built around 1804 by Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the powerful Ottoman governor of the region, as part of a network of coastal strongholds. Its three corner towers and walls over three metres thick were designed to withstand cannon fire from the sea.
Is Porto Palermo worth visiting?
Yes, if you like history and dramatic scenery over sunbeds. The castle is compact but the island-like setting in a silent, mountain-ringed bay is unforgettable, and the Cold War submarine cave across the water adds an eerie twist. Paired with Himarë, it makes one of the Riviera's best day trips.
